[Jeonju] - Evening at Omokdae (오목대) Pavilion

Panoramic view of Jeonju Hanok Village from Omokdae.

"buzz KOREA", "buzz-Korea", "buzz Korea", "Korea" 

Legends of Buseoksa Temple (부석사)

Buseoksa, the jewel of Korean architecture was built by Monk Uisang during King Munmu's reign (676) of Silla Dynasty. 

Teacher Jeon brought us to the courtyard in front of Muryangsujeon and stated to tell us the legends pf Buseoksa temple:

1. Monk Uisang and Lady Seonmyo 

King of Silla Kingdom asked Monk Uisang (의상대사) to go to Tang Dynasty in China to study Avatamsaka Sutra (Flower Garland Sutra).

Lady Seonmyo took care of Monk Uisang during his stay in her house.

He was invited by a local Buddhist lay-family to stay in their home. His daughter, SeonMyo (선묘), fell deeply in love with UiSang. But, Uisang could not accept her love, as he was a monk, who took his precepts seriously. Seonmyo respected and understood his position, and she became his faithful disciple and made a vow of eternal devotion to him as her mentor.

Monk Uisang heard that Tang is going to invade, therefore he need to go back to Korea and report to the king about the war. As he didn't find Lady Seonmyo at home, he left without saying a word...

 When Lady SeonMyo found out that Uisang was leaving, 

she quickly wrapped a robe and bowl as souvenir to Uisang, 

but when she rushed to the harbor, the ship left... 

(Sad story! suddenly my tears rolled down my face) 

Lady Seonmyo prayed to Buddha, jumped into the sea and became a dragon,

She wanted to protect and follow him on his way back to Silla...

(my tears flowed crazily and unstoppable!!!)

Because of the timely news about the invasion, Silla won the war against Tang. King Mummu asked Uisang to build as many temples as he could. He built about 10 important temples in Korea. 

~Floating Stone~

However, this place belongs to Goryeo, about 500 locals stood against him and tried to kick him out from Goryeo. Lady SeonMyo turned to a big rock and flew over the 500 locals, and they were killed. 

Therefore, the temple named as Buseok (부석 = floating stone).

This huge floating stone stands on the left side of Muryangsujeon. According to I Jung-Hwan's Taekriji written during King Sejong of Joseon Dynasty noted: "There is a slight gap between the two filed rocks, so puling the thread proves that the upper rock is floating above the lower rock." 

Lady Seonmyo turned herself to stone dragon,

 and was buried in the courtyard of Muryangsujeon.

However, the dragon was cut into half by Japanese during their occupation in Korea, as they heard that the dragon was guarding the temple.

2. Monk Uisang's cane

Famous 'Seonbihwa' tree In front of Josadang

When Priest Uisang was leaving for India, he planted his walking stick into the ground. He said that if the stick grow to be a tree, means that he's still alive. This tree is still growing and blooming flowers in every May for 1,300 years!

There's another story where the Japanese officer cut the tree and moved it to his own garden. And, he had bad luck after that, and eventually sentenced to death.

Too bad that we'd no time to see this legendary tree with our own eyes... 

3. Blueprint of Buseoksa Temple

Buseoksa is an outstanding example of mountain temple, and counted as the epitome of Korean architecture.

Lady Seonmyo told Monk Uisang to fast for 7 days before building the temple. At the end of the 7 days, he envision this blueprint, Chinese character of Hwa (華).

Layout of Buseoksa Temple based on Chinese letter 'Hwa'

 that embodies the belief of the Hwaom (화엄) Buddhist Sect.

Buseoksa is famous of its structural beauty, the scenery that encompasses the Any­angru Pavilion and Muryangsujeon Hall that actively engages the different ground levels provide different views on each platform achieving unification over various spaces. 

There are 108 steps from Heavenly King Gate (Cheonwangmun) to Paradise Gate (Anyangmun). Strong will is needed to make to Nirwana, as visitors must climb a series of 108 stepping stones to achieve Nirvana. It represents that you need to win over earthly temptations or troubles to arrive at Anyangmun!

We're finally here... 'The Entrance to Heaven'

Can you see Boddhisatvas sitting on the Any­angru Pavilion?

Isn't it awesome?! Various methods by aligning pillars in gradually ascending height, inward-slanting of the last pillars on both sides were applied to have these optical illusions.

refreshing and beautiful scenery from Anyang courtyard...

 over the mountainous landscape. 

spectacular sunset scene from Anyang Pavilion

Kim Sat Gat once visited Buseoksa, sat on Anyang Pavilion 

admiring the view and composed the above poem.

Teacher Jeon recited the poem in English version. I couldn't recall it, but somehow the poem described my mind at that point of time...

I shredded tears while listening to the poem ㅠㅠ

(... I'm already at my middle age, how many times more can I see this beautiful scenery...?)

Teacher Jeon also told us the background of Kim Sat Gat...

(click the link for the photo source)

His real name was Kim Byeong-yeon, but known as Kim Sat Gat (김삿갓). He was a great scholar, but he found out that his grandfather was a traitor. Therefore, Kim spent most of his life traveling and wandering around Korea for more than 30 years, wearing his Bamboo Hat (Sat Gat). The hat represented his guilty feeling and even ashamed of the sunlight.

He became famous after composed numerous poems praising the beauty of nature and humanism, but sarcastically criticizing human greed or materialistic class-conscious society. Really admired his righteous mind and adventurous spirit!

Related Posts:

~ Korean Buddhist Temple

~ Treasures in Buseoksa Temple (부석사) 

~ Seonbichon Village (선비촌)

~ Sosu Seowon Confucian Academy (소수서원)

Korean Buddhist Temple

Buddhism was introduced to the Korean peninsula in the 4th century. The ancient kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla respectively acknowledged the religion officially. Buddhism was prospered as the national religion for over 1,000 years. 

Buddhism suffered after Goryeo Dynasty, as Joseon dynasty (1392-1910) adopted Confucianism. A lot of temples in were forced to closed (including Suksusa Temple that functioned as Seowon), only those located in mountainous areas were able to survive. 

It's our destiny... unbelievable landed in 'Nirwana' 

Well, we planned to go to Busan after Sosu Museum, so Buseoksa was not in our itinerary. I went to Tourist Information counter outside of Seonbichon to check whether there's intercity bus to Busan from Yeongju Bus terminal.

One of the ladies called the interpreter as they didn't speak English. Then after I asked the interpreter, passed the phone back to the officer, then passed here and there. Finally,...

"부석사 까지 갑니다"

we followed the instruction on the note to go to Buseoksa

arrived in front of KTO office, then showed the note to the officer...

"전영수 선생님께 통화하게 해주세요"

After she searched the phone list and called, she told us to follow the path, and walk to Buseoksa...

Yeah, you're on the correct way... it's along
the hiking course of Sobaeksan Mountain...

 Yes, finally arrived at ticket counter...

Showed the same note, and the ticket officer also searched his phone list and called 전영수 선생님 (Teacher Jeon). Teacher Jeon said he waited for us on the stone stairs... Another mission to complete?!

Pole to hang the door or window...

One Pillar Gate - 太白山浮石寺

It is called the One Pillar Gate not because there is only one pillar but rather because the pillars are in the shape of the numeral one and are straight and upright. Written on this gate might be the mountain and temple names

I only found out that when you entering this gate, you need to have 

a deep bow from the waist with hands folded at the chest.

I'll remember this and do it next time...

A roof connects these pillars to symbolize single-mindedness. This is a reminder to forsake one’s wandering mind and go forth resolutely. 

The only gate we could see after about 8 minutes walk, but a bit relieved to see Buseoksa (浮石寺) wording on it. Actually, at the same time I started to regret... why did I go to the tourist information counter? Why we left our luggage in the tourist officer counter? If the bus use another route to Buseoksa means we need to walk down and come back again?!! 안돼~~~!!!

This reminded me on our first trip to Korean temple, Bulguksa Temple... We walked in the forest. It's quite far from the entrance too, located on the slopes of mount Toham.

A lot of Korean Buddhist temples are often nestled deep in the mountains, the traditional belief of revering mountains formed a combination with Buddhism.

Heavenly King Door (사왕천 = 天王門)

After about 5 minutes walk from 太白山浮石寺 gate, finally we saw stone stairs leading to 天王門. 

I found nobody, only Four Heavenly Kings. 

Four Great Heavenly Kings (사대천왕) are the guardians of the four corners of the heavens. They are often found at Korean temple gates:

1. Damun Cheonwang (다문천왕 = 多聞天王) = He who hears everything.

2. Jeungjang Cheonwang (증장천왕 = 增長天王) = He who causes to grow

3. Jiguk Cheonwang (지국천왕 = 持國天王) = He who upholds the realm

4. Gwangmok Cheonwang (광목천왕 = 廣目天王) = He who sees all  

They are presented two on each side of the corridor. Check this link for better photos showing them clad in armor and flowing robes, each trampling a demon and carrying an object such as a sword, stupa or pipa...

an elderly man sat on the stone stairs...

Teacher Jeon asked whether we're looking for him? I passed the memo to him, and he introduced himself and showed his name tag to us...

Teacher Cheon guided us around Buseoksa...

Extremely surprised... He didn't sound 'old' on the phone, and secondly he spoke English fluently! Just unable to stop my surprise after apologies for long waiting as we're taking so long to walk there.

I told Mr Cheon that I was so amazed by his fluency in speaking English. He explained that he was a retired English teacher with more than 30 years of teaching experience!

For this posting, I'll emphasis more on characteristic of Buddhist Temples in Korea, that maybe some of you might interested to know. And, I want to share as much as possible of what Teacher Jeon shared to us...

Four instruments (Samul) that usually found in Korean Buddhist Temple

to announce the time for monks to practice their daily rites. 

Each percussion instrument is used for the purpose of liberating all sentient beings in the universe: 

1. Mokeo - Wooden Fish (목어 = 木鱼) => for all sentient in the water.

Teacher Jeon started to tell us the story of this Mokeo. Long time ago in China... there was a monk that had many disciples. But  one of disciples didn't obey him. Eventually, this disciple died and was reborn as a fish with a tree on its back. One day when the monk's old master was crossing the river, the fish came to him sadly. The monk recognized his disciple. Then the fish asked the monk to cut the tree from his back and make a fish-shaped instrument and tell this story as a lesson for others disciples.

The monk usually carry 'moktak' (목탁), which is like the miniature of Mokeo. It shaped like the wooden fish, but is smaller and rounder. 

The Dharma Drum

2. Beopgo -  Dharma Drum (법고 = 法鼓) => for all sentient in heaven and hell.

The sound of the beating drum is considered to echo the sound of Buddha's teachings. Thus, to beat the drum means to spread Buddha Dharma as its sound diffuses in the air. At the same time, it is intended to liberate the sentient beings in heaven and hell by its sound. 

The body of the drum is made of well-dried wood and both surfaces are covered with leather hides of both bull and cow. Using the male and female cattle implies the symbolic of harmonizing the cosmic dual forces, Yin and Yang. 

The Brahma bell 

3.  Beomjong - Brahma Bell (범종 = 梵鐘) => for all sentient beings living on Earth.

The character of 梵 means Brahma (the truth of the cosmos). This great bell is struck 28 times in the morning (03:00) imply the incessant lineage of Buddhist tradition from Sakyamuni Buddha to the Sixth Patriarch, Huineng (638-713). And 33 times in the evening (18:00) signify the Buddhist realms of 33 celestial worlds.  It is believed that the sound of the bell will deliver all beings in the heavenly realm, and all beings in hell are released from their suffering.

There's a Dragon (Po) on top of the bell.  

A long time ago many dragons lived in the sea. One of them was named Po. This dragon cried often and was afraid of whales.  A whale shaped  instrument is used for striking the bell. The bell's sound is said to be like Po's cries.

The Cloud-shaped gong

4. Unpan - Cloud shaped Gong (운판 = 雲板) => for all sentient in the sky

The Unpan is made of metal forming a cumulus cloud and usually image of Buddha or phrase of sutra is inscribed on it. and represents all the  It is believed to serve for liberating all sentient in the sky. 

To strike the gong holds the additional meaning that the sound helps the hovering spirits of the dead find the Buddha’s Pure Land for rebirth. Some temples hang this gong in the kitchen or the dining room to announce mealtime.

Samhwasa Temple is another good example of Korean Buddhist Temple near Mureung Valley. 

Korean Traditional percussion music, Samulnori (사물놀이), was said to be derived from Buddhist Temple. It's comprised of the four Korean percussion instruments: Buk (북 = big barrel drum), Janggu (장구 = hourglass-shaped drum), Jing (징 = large gong), and Ggwaenggwari (꽹과리 = small gong). This four instruments are called, 'Un-u-pung-roe(雲雨風雷)' because people say that the sound of Buk (resemble to wind), Janggu (resonate the rain), Jing (echo the wind) and Ggwanggari (thunder).

Please check this link if you're interested for Temple Stay in Buseoksa. 

Ok, stay tuned~! will let you know why Buseoksa is one of the best temples in Korea on next posting... 

Related Posts:

~ Legends of Buseoksa Temple (부석사) 

~ Treasures in Buseoksa Temple (부석사)

~ Seonbichon Village (선비촌)

~ Sosu Seowon Confucian Academy (소수서원)

[Yeongju] Sosu Museum (소수박물관)

Step out from Sosu Seowon, you'll be surrounded by a tranquil and natural environment... Beautiful Pavilion and pine forest...

Gyeongryeomjeong Pavilion was built by Ju SeBung.

'Moonlight Drawn by Clouds' filming location

where Yoon-sung suggested Ra-on to rest under the tree (3:45)

  This pine tree is located at pine forest which is facing 

Munseonggongmyo and very near to Gyeongryeomjeong Pavilion . 

Plague 景濂亭 (경렴장 = Gyeongryeomjeong) and poems hanging

inside the pavilion

500 year old ginkgo tree.

Gyeongryeomjeong Pavilion overlooking Jukgyecheon Stream,

Chwihandae Pavilion, and supposedly Gyeongja Rock? 

(blame my eyes, I didn't see the rock :P)

Baekundong - Engraved Gyeongja Rock (경자바위).

The Chinese characters Baekundong (白雲洞: white cloud village) and the letter Gyeong (敬: respect) as the basic idea of Confucianism, are said to have been inscribed by the great Confucian scholar Toegye Yi Hwang. The book titled 'Sinjaejip' explained that the red colored Chinese letter of 敬.

Gyeongja Rock bears a terrible historical event called 'Jeongchukjibyeon' (King Danjong Restoration Movement) happen in Sunheung village. The attempt to restore Danjong to the throne failed, and many people were killed and put in Jukgyecheon Stream. 

It said the sad weeping sounds of the sacrificed innocents could be heard here every night. Therefore, Ju Sebung, painted 敬 in red and held a consoling ritual for the sacrificed people. Then, it is said the mournful weeping sounds disappeared mysteriously...

I watched Princess' Man (공주의 남자) and Face Reader (관상) 

with story line of Grand Prince Suyang forces King Danjong to abdicate. 

It's sad to know that serene looking Jukgyecheon Stream  has such a sad story ㅠㅠ

Hundreds of tall pine trees.

Don't believe me? Let's count them!

Ok, I stopped at 118, please continue to count from here :P

365 cm high of stone Flag pole support to mark the site of a temple...

Treasure no. 59 - Suksusa Temple Site's Flagpole supports

(숙수사지당간지주 = 宿水寺址 幢竿支柱)

It's the most unusual to find Confucianism and Buddhism at one place. The reason is that during the Joseon era (1392-1910), Buddhism suffered heavy persecution. Many temples were forced to close and or use for other purposes . In this instance, Suksusa Temple, built during Unified Silla  period  became a private academy.

This also explained why Sosu Seowon has unusual layout with study place in the east, and the shrine in the west, while putting more emphasis on the east. While, most of Korean Confucian academies following basic principle of Chinese arrangement with study place at the front of the structure and the shrine to the rear.  

Walking from Sosu Seowon to Sosu Museum... 

You'll see Chwihandae (취한대 = 翠寒台) Pavilion 

and another pavilion on the way to Sosu Museum

Sosu Museum (소수박물관)

www.seonbichon.or.kr 

Add: 경상북도 영주시 순흥면 소백로 2780

Sosu Museum has 6 exhibition halls:

* Special Exhibition Hall - donated artifacts

* Exhibition Hall 1 - Yeongju historical town of nobility and precious cultural relics 

* Exhibition Hall 2 - Confucianism

* Exhibition Hall 3 - Confucian Academy and Confucian School

* Exhibition Hall 4 - Sosuseowon Confucian Academy

* Outdoor Exhibition Hall

Confucianism has been considered to be an important spiritual philosophy for Korean people. You can trace the history in this Sosu Museum...

Statue of Great Confucian Philosophers

Anhyang (안향 = 安珦),  Ju Sebung (주세붕 = 周世鹏), Yi Hwang (이황 = 李滉)

Gongja (공자 = 孔子), Juja (주자 = 朱子) 

Sosu Museum exhibits a wide range of traditional Confucian cultural assets 

 to help visitors trace the historical roots of the national spirit through Sosu Seowon. 

Old method of printing.

Replicas of murals in the ancient tomb in Sunheung, which is said to be the only tomb 

in South Korea that was built in the style of the ancient Goguryeo Dynasty.

The construction date of the tomb.

 Ancient Map?

~*~*~*~*~*~

From Sosu Museum, we went back to Seobichon Village to get back to have lunch and get our luggage, then will be heading to our next destination (Busan), but...?!

Mukbap (묵밥) is Yeongju’s signature food,

rice served with acorn jelly soup - 6,000 Won

Bindaetteok (빈대떡) - mung bean pancake with vegetables

 Seonbi Makgeolli (선비주 막걸리) - 3,000 Won

Recommended to have your tasty meal here:

산채락 식당

(near the entrance of Seonbichon Village).

Related Posts:

~ Quaint Museom Hanok Village (영주 무섬마을) Part 1

~ Quaint Museom Hanok Village (영주 무섬마을) Part 2 

~ Sosu Seowon Confucian Academy (소수서원) 

~ Sosu Museum (소수박물관)